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International delivery. United States delivery. Recent Vehicles. Refine results by: Current Vehicle Recent Vehicles. Recently Searched. Show Recent Vehicles. X Welcome International Customers! Results 1 - 14 of View By Product Groups. Large Image. Multiple Images. Instructions Large Image.Fulfillment by Amazon FBA is a service we offer sellers that lets them store their products in Amazon's fulfillment centers, and we directly pack, ship, and provide customer service for these products.
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They provide high quality services that demand high quality tools. When they need a reliable tool, they know they can depend on OTC tools to deliver. Skip to main content. Buy new:. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition and get a full refund: no shipping charges Learn more about free returns. How to return the item? Go to your orders and start the return Select the ship method Ship it! In Stock. Add to Cart. Ships from and sold by Amazon.
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Is there a special trick Forum Rules. Remember Me? What's New? Results 1 to 20 of Add Thread to del. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Is there a special trick to taking this off? I tried PB blaster and the pulley puller but the puller keeps coming loose and it doesn't budge. Could I heat it up to take it off?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Share Share this post on Digg Del. Posted from Android App. You need a good quality puller, preferably one that has a retention feature on the fingers. I wouldn't put any heat to it unless all else fails. What do you mean by retention feature?
I rented the one from advance auto parts and it sucks. I've removed and installed a couple of these. You'll need a good quality puller like Jeff mentioned. I'm thinking Harbor Freight probably isn't the place. Do you have a good tool outlet near you? I would suppose even a puller from Sears would be better quality than Harbor Freight You'll also need the tool to reinstall as well.
I use one made by Mac Tools, and it threads into the crank, then you turn a nut that has a roller bearing in between and it gently and easily reinstalls the pulley without screwing up the crank threads. Some people try to run it in with a crank bolt, I don't recommend that as it can pull the threads, then your day gets more interesting All of these tools are small enough that it can be done in the car.
When you get to some of the bigger pullers like you have pictured hydraulic you might have a fun time getting that setup in there, because there isn't alot of wiggle room. I have a question Jeff, Hows come when I type the word "sears" it automatically pops up in the thread as a link??Well, there are 2 reasons for this. First off, it seems a lot of the and before oil pumps have an issue that causes them to totally lose pressure, which then causes your motor to tear itself up due to lack of lubrication.
Secondly, some people like to have a bit higher oil pressure than stock just to be on the safe side You also need to note that if you do want to replace your oil pump, you might as well do it the same time you do a cam swap.
An amazing amount of work is shared between the two installs. Now is probably a good time to aquaint yourself with our oil pumps. Here are a few pics showing my oil pump as I received it from ARE. The Part in the image is what is casted into the oil pump, but the part the dealers use is different as shown above in the part list.
Front and bottom View Rear view Lets begin: Preliminary stuff: Start draining the radiator by opening the valve on the bottom passenger side.
Once the radiator is fully drained, use pliers to compress the hose clamps and disconnect them off the radiator, then pull the radiator straight up and out of the car.
Water pump removal: Now that the radiator is out you have room to work. Put a wrench on the belt tensioner, pull on it, and remove the drive belt. Unattach the 4 hoses going to the water pump 2 big, and 2 small and then unbolt the water pump. There are 6 10mm bolts to get it off. The power steering will block access to one of the bolts so you'll need to use a box wrench or gear wrench here.
Crank pulley removal: Now, break the crank bolt free and unturn it turns. Install a 3 jaw puller onto the pulley. Do NOT pull from the outside diameter of the stock pulley or you might break it I've seen one in 10 pieces before.
If you have the ASP underdrive pulley, you can pull from the large ridge half way back on the outside diameter of the pulley. A puller with 6" long arms or so should be able to reach those. I've removed an ASP pulley times like this with no issues. If you have a larger puller you might be able to grab the back of the ASP pulley, but I have yet to find one that size.
Once the puller is installed, start turning the bolt until the pulley comes loose. If your puller runs out of travel before then, twist out the crank bolt a bit more and try again. You might have to use washers or a socket on the end of the puller bolt to get enough travel in the puller.
Timing cover removal: Ok, this part is easy. There are 10 10mm bolts holding the timing cover on Remove all of them and pull the cover off being carefull with the gasket. Ok, now that all thats done, you should have something in front of you that looks like the picture on the left. Open up the picture if you are not familiar with what you are looking at.
I have labeled the various parts. So, now that you know where the oil pump is, we need to go ahead and remove it. From the picture it looks as simple as removing four bolts, BUT, its not that easy. On the bottom of the pump there is a pickup tube attached. This pickup tube goes down into the oil pan to pickup oil. We'll need to disconnect this tube. Before we can get to it, we need to lower the oil pan.
Oil Pump Swap
Unbolting the oil pan when it was full of oil turned out to get a little messy, so we went ahead and drained all the oil. I recommend you do the same. Now, you'll need to remove the oil pan bolts.For gains this amazing, it must cost an arm and a leg right?!?
No chart this basic could possibly detail all the differences between 2 similar cams, so use it only as a rough guide Cam Basics: When deciding which camshaft is right for you, the best you can do is try to make an educated guess based on previous experiences or other's experiences.
There are countless books about camshaft design and theory, so trying to explain what all to choose is pointless and this is why vendors are out there to see what works well in the LS1 for us. They do the research, and thus, they get our money. The first two numbers are intake duration in degrees followed by exhaust duration in degrees. The next two numbers are valve lift for the intake in inches and valve lift for the exhaust in inches.
Finally, the last number is the Lobe Separation Angle. Duration: Duration really plays a big factor in how the cam will drive and idle. The bigger the duration, the longer the valves stay open, and generally the 'lopier' and worse driving the cam will be. The numbers you'll usually see are the duration in degrees that the valve is open MORE than 0. Cam cards will also list duration at 0 lift, and that will be a number like 'ish.
Cams that have the same duration for intake and exhaust are symmetrical, cams with more intake than exhaust are called "reverse split", and cams with more exhaust than intake are sometimes referred to as "traditional split".
The lower the angle, the more the lobes will overlap, and that means more lope, gas smell, and drivability issues Duration and LSA are 2 very important items in clueing you into how a cam will idle and drive, although there is a LOT more to a cam than this.
Lift: Cam lift, in my opinion, is less of a complicated matter on these motors. There's not much of a reason to run less than 0. If you have ported heads, it may be best to lean towards cams with 0. Note that a cam card will show lobe liftwhich is the actual lift of the cam lobe. Once you take lobe lift and multiply it by the ratio of the rocker arm stock is 1. Lobe Profile The Lobe profile of a cam basically is the curve at which a valve is opened and closed. Some lobes are very EXTREME and will snap a valve open very quickly and then slam it shut, while others are "softer" and slowly open and close valves.
The more extreme the lobe, the noisier your valvetrain will be and the harder it is on your valve springs If your cam has very aggressive lobes and your cam lift is up there, I'd suggest you try to lighten your valvetrain by getting titanium retainers if possible. Choosing the cam for you For cars that need to stay stock sounding and driving, but still want a kick in the pants for horsepower, something between a and 'ish duration would probably be best.
As long as you pick a cam close to what might fit you i. It's not a life or death decision here. A few degrees here and there isn't something you should sweat about until you've gotten a few cams under your belt and know more about what you want.With a standard all aluminum case design for lower reciprocating weight, stress-proof steel hub and steel internal inertia rings for outstanding durability, Innovators West Balancers are a great investment for your street or race vehicle.
Inside the light weight billet aluminum cover is a free floating wet friction clutch pack assembly that utilizes spring loaded inertia rings to dampen crankshaft harmonics over a wide RPM range. The rings work in conjunction with clutches to provide outstanding dampening action. That action does generate some heat, and we use a small amount of fluid inside that acts as a lubricant as well as dissipates heat to the outer body.
The terms dampner, damper and balancer, are often confused and are often used interchangeably. The function of a damper is to absorb and dampen the vibrations created by the engine from the firing pulses of the combustion process.
A balancer is used in conjunction with the crankshaft and flywheel to balance the rotating assembly of the motor. While all of our harmonic balancers are dampers, the correct use of the word would only be technically correct for those used on externally balanced motors that have an external bolted on weight. Regardless of the technical aspect, since many racers call them "balancers" we do as well. We respect your email privacy. Lighter, Stronger and More Options than the Others!
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Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installation Tools The harmonic balancer is press-fit onto the end of the crankshaft and held on by a single bolt. Put down the pry bars and mallets and do the job right with harmonic balancer pullers and installation tools from Summit Racing Equipment. Shop by engine type or thread size, or, if you do a lot of engine work, grab a kit that adapts to a variety of engines.
For more information about harmonic balancers, including installation tips, Read More.
Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installation Tools
The harmonic balancer is press-fit onto the end of the crankshaft and held on by a single bolt. For more information about harmonic balancers, including installation tips, click here. Top Brands In addition to high performance parts, Summit is your source for specialized automotive tools like harmonic balancer pullers and installers. Show Less. Recent Vehicles. Refine results by: Current Vehicle Recent Vehicles. Recently Searched. Show Recent Vehicles. X Welcome International Customers!
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